Tree and Shrub Planting Tips 

Spring or Fall are the best times for planting, if at all possible avoid midsummer heat for new plantings or transplanting.
1. Less Heat
2. More Rain

Following is a list of steps and tips for successful results anytime:

• Select your plant carefully.  Read the information on the tag and pick a location that matches the space and growing conditions your plant requires. 
• Move your tree or shrub to the intended location.  If it's heavy, use a small tarp to drag it.
• Dig the hole 2-3 times wider than, and just as deep as the root ball.  If you shovel the dug-out soil onto a tarp, it will be easier to refill the hole later.  Once the hole is the right size, dig in the shovel a few times to loosen the bottom of the hole, making it easier for the roots to penetrate.
• Remove all wire, twine, and plant tags.  If the root ball is in burlap, you can remove it, or keep it, it will decompose.  Do cut it back from the top of the root ball, so it doesn't wick moisture away from the roots or stick out over the soil.
• Sometimes trees and shrubs grown in pot will be root-bound.  If your plant is in a pot and doesn't pull out easily, place it on its side and gently roll it.  If this doesn't loosen it, use a mallet to gently tap the sides.  If this doesn't work, use a strong scissors to cut the pot away.  Don't worry about damaging the roots.  Don't worry about cutting the roots; cutting encourages new roots to grow.  In fall, plants naturally shut down for winter.  The roots don't need to use their energy to supply nutrients or water to grow stems and new leaves; at this time of year, they focus on getting themselves established to anchor the plant and prepare for next spring. 
• If roots are tightly matted, cutting them does the trick.  You can cut or untangle them.  This will help them spread out once in the ground.  Use a saw, or sturdy knife to make two cuts in the root ball (imagine the bottom of the root ball is a pizza, and cut into four slices.)  If you can loosen individual roots with your fingers, great, if you can't, just the cuts will do.  
• Before lowering the tree or shrub into the planting hole, look at it from all sides to decide which side looks best.  Orient the plant so the best side faces the side most viewed, and lower into hole.     
• Make sure the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.  Shovel the soil you dug out earlier back into the hole.  Do not amend the soil or add compost into the planting hole.  If the soil in the planting hole is much more nutrient-rich than the surrounding soil, the roots won't want to spread beyond it and will grow in circles instead of outward.  This makes a tree much less stable.  Adding compost as a top dressing is fine, nutrients will work their way down. 
• Do not fertilize the tree or shrub until it is established.  In fall we do not want to encourage foliage to grow, it will only weaken the plant and take away from root establishment.  Fertilize in the spring. 
• Do not prune the tree or shrub.  Pruning encourages new growth, which has the same effect as fertilizer.  Adding a root stimulator, which causes only roots to grow, not foliage, is fine. Prune to shape in late winter, or early spring if needed.
• Press the soil down lightly, but do not stomp it down. 
• Mulch around the planting hole.  Two inches is plenty.  Do not mound it like a volcano, and keep it away from the trunk or stem. 
• Water your new planting at least weekly till the ground freezes.  Rain is generally not sufficient, and several hours at a trickle, is much more beneficial than 10 minutes with a running hose.    By the second season, your planting should be good on it's own, but watch for signs of stress just in case.