Change seems to be the one thing that is constant, and yes, the love of growing things, so if you are interested in how we got to where we are now, here is the story. Deep Roots……
Deep roots are a great attribute not only for plants, but people too! Petal'n'Roots was started at 913 Mira Avenue (Corner of Mira and County Road A) since 2007, but our family has lived in the Crivitz area for generations.
Taking a step way-back, my grandparents, Walter and Sadie Schnell were the offspring of German Immigrants, and brought their family to live and grow on the same family farm I grew up on. The family’s calling was running the small family dairy farm, which today is a rare thing. Thinking back, these small farmers were the entrepreneurs of the day, as running a successful farm and raising a large family is no small feat. Myself, my siblings and my children spent countless hours playing in the Peterman Brook which runs through the original family homestead. It is now owned by my sister, in fact, all of my 6 siblings and parents live within a 50 mile radius to this day!
I have a son, Kelly and two daughters, Erin and Jenny. Our family was raised here on my parents (Charlie and Dorothy Schnell's) first farm, purchased on a shoestring as a young couple, 3 miles from the original homestead, and have developed it into Beech Road Gardens, and now Petal 'n' Roots. Many people might recognize it as the location of many yearly plant sales, going back to 2000. I couldn’t seem to stop growing, even then, and had to liquidate the plants my extensive home garden could no longer contain. In 2002 I became trained as a Master Gardener, and was hopelessly smitten, and knew I had to do something more. As Petal'n'Roots became a reality, Beech Road Gardens continued to be developed into the young plant nursery, and now, back to our roots! and it becomes Petal 'n' Roots!
I will work hard to nurture our deep roots and to pass on the love of growing to our children and grandchildren. My promise to you is to continually strive to improve and educate and to grow the very best plants possible, from my family to yours…………
Kathy Gilligan
Tree and Shrub Planting Tips
Spring or Fall are the best times for planting, if at all possible avoid midsummer heat for new plantings or transplanting. 1. Less Heat 2. More Rain
Following is a list of steps and tips for successful results anytime:
Select your plant carefully. Read the information on the tag and pick a location that matches the space and growing conditions your plant requires.
Move your tree or shrub to the intended location. If it's heavy, use a small tarp to drag it.
Dig the hole 2-3 times wider than, and just as deep as the root ball. If you shovel the dug-out soil onto a tarp, it will be easier to refill the hole later. Once the hole is the right size, dig in the shovel a few times to loosen the bottom of the hole, making it easier for the roots to penetrate.
Remove all wire, twine, and plant tags. If the root ball is in burlap, you can remove it, or keep it, it will decompose. Do cut it back from the top of the root ball, so it doesn't wick moisture away from the roots or stick out over the soil.
Sometimes trees and shrubs grown in pot will be root-bound. If your plant is in a pot and doesn't pull out easily, place it on its side and gently roll it. If this doesn't loosen it, use a mallet to gently tap the sides. If this doesn't work, use a strong scissors to cut the pot away. Don't worry about damaging the roots. Don't worry about cutting the roots; cutting encourages new roots to grow. In fall, plants naturally shut down for winter. The roots don't need to use their energy to supply nutrients or water to grow stems and new leaves; at this time of year, they focus on getting themselves established to anchor the plant and prepare for next spring.
If roots are tightly matted, cutting them does the trick. You can cut or untangle them. This will help them spread out once in the ground. Use a saw, or sturdy knife to make two cuts in the root ball (imagine the bottom of the root ball is a pizza, and cut into four slices.) If you can loosen individual roots with your fingers, great, if you can't, just the cuts will do.
Before lowering the tree or shrub into the planting hole, look at it from all sides to decide which side looks best. Orient the plant so the best side faces the side most viewed, and lower into hole.
Make sure the top of the root ball is even with the soil line. Shovel the soil you dug out earlier back into the hole. Do not amend the soil or add compost into the planting hole. If the soil in the planting hole is much more nutrient-rich than the surrounding soil, the roots won't want to spread beyond it and will grow in circles instead of outward. This makes a tree much less stable. Adding compost as a top dressing is fine, nutrients will work their way down.
Do not fertilize the tree or shrub until it is established. In fall we do not want to encourage foliage to grow, it will only weaken the plant and take away from root establishment. Fertilize in the spring.
Do not prune the tree or shrub. Pruning encourages new growth, which has the same effect as fertilizer. Adding a root stimulator, which causes only roots to grow, not foliage, is fine. Prune to shape in late winter, or early spring if needed.
Press the soil down lightly, but do not stomp it down.
Mulch around the planting hole. Two inches is plenty. Do not mound it like a volcano, and keep it away from the trunk or stem.
Water your new planting at least weekly till the ground freezes. Rain is generally not sufficient, and several hours at a trickle, is much more beneficial than 10 minutes with a running hose. By the second season, your planting should be good on it's own, but watch for signs of stress just in case.